It is an outstanding exhibition to welcome visitors to the 58th edition of Filo: “Aesthetics ’70. Brunetta’s genius dialogues with Franco’s creativity” tells of a particularly happy period for fashion and showcases five unique pieces by Francesco Fracchiolla, aka Franco, with original sketches and releases by Brunetta Moretti Mateldi, known internationally simply as “Brunetta”. Also on display, other sketches, drawings and advertisements made by Brunetta. The exhibition is curated by Elisabetta Invernici, journalist and costume historian.
“Estetica ’70” stages suggestions of art and style through Franco’s essential tailoring and Brunetta’s witty pen: fifty years later, fashion is in fact called to a new change of pace, which takes into account ecological choices deep and global thrusts poised between tradition and renewal.
It will be Franco Fracchiolla and Elisabetta Invernici who will explain to Filo partecipants the traits and contents of the collaboration between the great tailor and the designer, in a press conference to be held on Wednesday 14 September at 12pm in the Networking Area of the Salone. Massimo Moretti, Brunetta’s nephew and owner of her historical archive, will be present.
Brunetta Mateldi was a designer, journalist, writer, painter, ceramist. Always at the center of the international cultural ferment, Brunetta met, inspired and commented on the catwalk creations by Chanel and Dior, Schubert and Schiaparelli, up to the fashion shows of the great Italians of prêt-à-porter, of which she was a great friend, contended from the biggest fashion magazines, alongside Diana Wreeland, Irene Brin and Camilla Cederna. Her sketches tell more than many words.
Franco presents his first collection in May 1968. And it is a revolutionary collection in terms of colors, fabrics and proportions. Throughout the Seventies, then, the asymmetrical cuts, the geometric panels, certain spatial solutions in the double fabrics sign the Franco style and inspire Pierre Cardin himself. The colors are always intense – lobster, apple green, shocking pink, bright or pastel – yet not arrogant, rather sober thanks to a glaze that makes them unique and soft. In those years, his proposals come to life on the pages of newspapers in the original Brunetta section and light up the reportages by Camilla Cederna. Today the designer is engaged in the project of a Foundation in his name.
The exhibition set up in Filo is the first stage of a journey of knowledge on the figure of Brunetta, conceived and created by Elisabetta Invernici, which will culminate in 2024.
We look forward to welcoming you at Filo on the 14th and 15th of September 2022 at Allianz MiCo – Milan!