【DE】THE MUNICH FABRIC START HAS DELIVERED

The 50th edition of MUNICH FABRIC START marks a milestone: bigger than ever and back with full traction. The international fabric trade show remains a set date in the trade fair calendar. The positive, motivated and ambitious mood of the trade show with inspiring new products, innovative contents and future-oriented themes has also been transferred to the industry: More than ever, especially in addition to intensive discussions, especially about raw material and energy prices, buyers, product managers and designers in Munich showed a desire for something new.

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

With its 50th edition from last Tuesday, 30 August to Thursday, 1 September, MUNICH FABRIC START has confirmed its role as one of the most important European fabric shows and leading business platforms for the fashion and denim industry.

 

With this anniversary, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH not only celebrated the comeback of MUNICH FABRIC START and the international denim trade show BLUEZONE after the formats of the past seasons had been adapted for Covid reasons, but also its growth with the biggest event in its history. In total, the approximately 900 exhibitors from 40 countries showed around 1,500 collections on a total exhibition area of 45,000 square metres; around 2,500 square me- tres more than at the last pre-Covid edition in September 2019.

 

Within the general trend in the trade show and event sector, MUNICH FABRIC START also re- corded a corresponding decline in the number of visitors compared to pre-Covid times.

 

With 14,200 visitors, the number was down, which was to be expected considering the conti- nuing travel restrictions and reservations, especially transcontinental, as well as the structural changes to be observed in the fashion industry. Nevertheless, the quality of the buyers, desig- ners and product managers present was convincing, which was also confirmed by the exhibi- tors.

 

Mostly companies from Germany, Austria and Switzerland came to Munich, including Adidas, ArmedAngels, Baldessarini, BMW, C&A, Cinque, Comma, Drykorn, Ecoalf, Hallhuber, the Holy Fashion Group, Hugo Boss, Lagerfeld, Laurèl, Mac, Marc Cain, Marc O‘Polo, Nike, Peek & Cloppenburg, Riani, s.Oliver, Schumacher, Strellson, Vaude, Windsor or Zalando. The Nether- lands remained an important visitor group with companies such as Calvin Klein, Claudia Strä- ter, Expresso Fashion and Scotch & Soda. Also strongly represented with their teams were the Scandinavian region with visitors such as Selected / Homme and the Bestseller Group as well as brands from France and Italy, including Calzedonia, Diesel, Giorgio Armani or Lacoste.

 

“ Despite the current changes and challenges, we draw a positive conclusion: at the 50th MUNICH FABRIC START, after what felt like a long break, a very special positive power and atmosphere was noticeable: physical moments, the personal encounter, a lot of inspiration, input and exchange – this piece of reliability and conti- nuity was an important signal for the industry. Our long-term idea is that of a one-stop solution for the fashion industry. We have come a significant step closer to this goal with our anniversary edition” , says Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of MUNICH FABRIC START.

 

“ Uniquely, not different ”

 

At both MUNICH FABRIC START in the MOC and BLUEZONE, the organisers further expanded their successful show-in-show concept: In the DESIGN STUDIOS in the light-flooded Atrium 3, 60 leading international fabric designers, print and pattern developers came together; KEY- HOUSE and CATALYSER brought together technological, sustainable and aesthetic innovation drivers at the intersection of fashion and denim; the completely new format THE SOURCE was fully booked at its premiere with around 65 exhibitors and provided answers to the increasing demand for manufacturing and nearshoring in the newly opened Hall 8 directly opposite the MOC.

 

“ We offer the industry perfect conditions for their business; from inspiring trend areas to a top-class lecture programme with new strong partnerships such as the one between Transformers Founda- tion and BLUEZONE as well as a portfolio that unites the most im- portant weavers, design studios and denim mills with vertical sour- cing suppliers and finishing companies for fabrics and accessories to our anniversary party with over 2,000 guests. We are all about convincing through quality, through uniqueness and reliability” , says Frank Junker, Creative Director and Partner of MUNICH FABRIC START.

 

Price discussions versus desire for something new

In Germany, Europe‘s most price-sensitive market, almost every discussion at the show was about finding approaches to maintaining price points on the one hand and not sacrificing quality on the other – a balancing act in times of rising energy prices. „In fact, I have to say that our discussions are not so much about trends and innovation – even though we receive a lot of encouragement there, of course – the main topic is the price. This is also reflected in the fact that customers are increasing their direct cooperation with us suppliers. They gratefully take advantage of any support and look to us for one thing above all: solutions to current challen- ges,“ says Barbara Hoechel, Managing Director, Balli.

 

Conversely, the desire for new things is greater than it has been for a long time. „Our task as a leading denim player is to think ahead. Our customers are currently more willing than ever to try out new things,“ says Holger Heitland, Key Account Manager, Isko, who showed again at BLUEZONE after six years. With full satisfaction: „We are back at BLUEZONE for the first time in six years and we are overwhelmed. From high-end to volume market – everyone was there – the important main customers as well as new customers. We are super happy,“ states Heitland delightedly.

 

Visitors encountered innovations in all areas of MUNICH FABRIC START and across all steps of the value chain. Many innovative raw materials were on show that are either recycled, recyc- lable or biodegradable – for example from Wastea, Piñatex and Incalpaca. Processes are also becoming more innovative: the many examples of highly efficient innovations to be discovered ranged from waterless dyeing to oxygen-based finishing to AI-driven processes – as seen at Muze, Wiser and Tejidos Royos. In addition, fully digital dressing and design options played an increasingly important role. „The physical and digital worlds are increasingly merging, also in the fashion sector. The virtual space is unleashing unimagined power. We truly believe that the digital future is limitless,“ comments Sedef Uncu Aki, Managing Director of Orta, on the per- spectives opening up in the virtual space.

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

 

Omnipresent: Sustainability

One topic at almost every stand was sustainability: „We had two super days. We had 55 custo- mers at the stand, 40 of them good existing customers from Hugo Boss to Walbusch to Trach- ten. Clearly, everything to do with sustainability is in demand. Now even those who have always laughed about the topic are coming,“ confirms Gerhard Leitner, Managing Director, Getzner Textil.

 

In the dedicated presentation area SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, curated by Simon Angel, vi- sitors were able to discover 6 particularly thought-provoking and inspiring innovations in KEY- HOUSE: from Biotic – fabrics grown from micro-organisms – by Studio Lionne van Deursen to a leather alternative made from flower waste by the project Flower Matter by Irene Purasachit and wearable muscles by Soft-Robotics.

 

In addition, the Lecture Centre of the Trend Seminars attracted many listeners to KEYHOUSE. The panel discussion on „Energy, the silent but huge raw material and key resource in denim“ with Alberto Candiani, President of Candiani Denim, Talha Khan, Executive Director of the Pa- kistan Environmental Trust, Johannes Stefan, Commercial Director Europe, Americas, Turkey/ Africa/CIS at Lenzing Group as well as Yucel Bayram, Sales & Marketing Director Kipas Holding and moderated by Andrew Olah, Founder Transformers Foundation, attracted special attention.

 

“ We’re looking at energy as just another raw material, just like water, just like cotton. Therefore I believe in efficiency as the grandfather of sustainability. In the end we’re surviving because of innovation ”, says Alberto Candiani, President Candiani Denim. “ Like most industries, the tex- tile industry, and the denim industry in particular, is not immune to problems arising from gas shortages and skyrocketing energy prices. For innovative companies, this is less of a problem and in some cases, earlier decisions for more energy-efficient and sustainable technologies are currently paying off. Chemical-free and virtually waterless refining technology is becoming increasingly lucrative“, Jesper Andersen from Wiser emphasizes.

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

Further quotes on the topics of trends, pricing policy and trade show activities:

MOC:

ALBINI

“Contrary to expectations, it was good. Due to the postponements of the trade fair dates, I would have expected much less here. And then this: The first day was super busy and the second even stronger. Co- lour was confirmed. Fashion is emotion-filled and the product managers are enthusiastic. Everything that visually creates emotion is on.”

 

Mladen Pototschnik

MANTECO

“ 60 visitors in 3 days! For us, the show was a complete success! MUNICH FABRIC START is a great show, as always highly professional and very well organised. The world has certainly changed. The high energy costs make our work almost impossible. The problem of the German market is its price levels. In order to keep them, buyers are now looking for cheaper alternatives at the expense of quality. But that cannot be the solution. We continue to focus on quality products and are confirmed in this.“ Emiliano Bertoli, Sales Manager, Manteco

 

NILORN

“ From Roy Robson, Carl Gross and Ulla Popken to Otto and Drykorn or in the sports sector Ortovox and Vaude – all the major customers were there. The fair went very well for us. The same applies to accesso- ries as everywhere else: sustainability – in whatever form – is in demand. For example, labels and ribbons for hangtags made of TENCEL Lyocell.” Frank Schäfer, Key Account Manager

 

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

 

YÜNSA

“It was good and in comparison to the last two fairs this show was much better. Wool blended fabrics are ‘in’ at the moment. In the pandemic everyone was wearing jersey. Now it’s all about tidy, nice, clean suits. Formal wear is back. We enlarged our collection and have more blended and more fashionable items. This was the absolute right decision. Lots of German clients announced to end their buying in Chi- na. This is where the Turkey benefits from.” Demet Yegen, Area Sales Manager, Yünsa

 

TAKISADA-NAGOYA

“Because of Covid we were not able to attend MUNICH FABRIC START for the last 2.5 years. Finally we are back and it so nice to see our partners faces again. We have been very busy. Almost as busy as before. Technical products with a natural feeling like our cotton touch polyester is what our clients are asking for a lot.” Shinzuko Danjo, International Sales, Takisada-Nagoya

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

 

DESIGN STUDIOS:

FUSION CPH

“We love the new location for the Design Studios in Atrium 4. It has been great, we are very happy. Espe- cially the first day has been very busy. Trendwise we have a really good response on lime green on dark grounds and ocher for digital blurry flower print.” Sofie Hviid, International Sales, Fusion CPH

 

BUREAUX BO

“We are very satisfied. We have gained many new customers. The new location is really great. Puccis, Animal, Artistic Flower and Marble and area prints in strong colours in strong, untypical colour schemes are doing very well.” Simonne Rummel, Owner, Bureaux Bo

 

BLUEZONE:

PANTHER

“Tuesday was not as busy as usual, but Wednesday made up for it. Everyone who wants to do business was there. Besides authentic denims, our new Lycra Adaptive Denims were very successful, just like in New York. Another theme: Cotton free denims made from 100% Tencel.”

 

Tim Hüsemann, Shareholder, Panther Textile Holding

ACM / THE ITALIAN LUSTER

“We are for the first time in Munich and had a very good first day. We are part of the Italian Luster a group of Italian companies bringing together all the different disciplines for 100% Made in Italy products. The Italian Luster has been launched at BLUEZONE at has been a big success. We will come back for sure next season.”

 

Dott.ssa Laura Corna, ACM

WISER

“There has been an even higher interest in our technology since the start of the gas crisis. But not only the energy efficient aspect is getting more important. Our chemical free and nearly waterless finishing technology is becoming more lucrative.”

 

Jesper Andersen, Wiser

SHARABATI DENIM

“Sustainability is becoming increasingly important, and some companies used the last two years for inno- vation: “Real sustainability is about the process – it’s about reducing water, reducing chemicals, inves- ting in local recycling facilities for reusing water, dyes, and fibres. We’ve been very busy. We’re especi- ally strong in the German market, but we’ve also had other international buyers. In terms of sustainability and buying we need to make our customers more conscious of what to ask.”

Dr. Dilek Erik, Globale Marketing-Managerin, Sharabati Denim

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

 

KEYHOUSE:

CLO VIRTUAL FASHION

“3D garments could help reducing the number of physical samples, and also to speed up the process of sample creation. We’ve been busy overall. Our expectations were met, even exceeded because our tech- nology is fairly new. The buyers are very international and from all across the world – we’ve spoken to big brands, start-ups and design students.” Marie-Luise Vielhaber, Business Development Associate, CLO Virtual Fashion

 

 

Photo: munichfabricstart.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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